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HomeKnowledge BaseBlanks & Wholesale › Blank Apparel Brands Compared: Weight, Yarn, Fit and Price, Side by Side

Blank Apparel Brands Compared: Weight, Yarn, Fit and Price, Side by Side

Blanks & Wholesale Updated 2026-08-16· 12 min read

In brief. Blank apparel brands differ on five measurable things: fabric weight, yarn spin and combing, side seams or tubular body, fit block and colour range. A Gildan 5000 is 5.3 oz at 20 singles, tubular; a BELLA+CANVAS 3001 is 4.2 oz of Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton at 32 singles, side-seamed. The wholesale gap is more than double the factory gap.

Key facts

Brand comparisons in this category usually come down to which shirt somebody liked. This one compares the specifications that are published, measurable and actually different, states where the numbers came from, and says plainly where a generalisation is being made. It also separates two things searchers constantly conflate: the brands that make blanks, and the distributors that sell many brands. That distinction changes what you pay. The page sits under the sourcing economics behind blank apparel pricing, and terms are defined in the Yarnstick glossary of sourcing and trade terms.

Brands versus distributors: the distinction that changes the price

This is the single most common confusion in the category, and it is worth clearing before any specification.

Who is a brand and who is a distributor in the blank apparel market.

Company type Examples What they do Effect on your price
Blank brand BELLA+CANVAS, Gildan, Hanes, Next Level, Comfort Colors, ComfortWash, Shaka Wear Own the specification, contract or own the production, import into US warehouses Their margin is inside every price you see
Distributor BlankStyle, BulkApparel, and sellers with names like bulktee Hold many brands in regional warehouses and ship to decorators A second margin sits on top of the brand's
Decorator Screen printers, embroiderers, direct-to-garment shops Buy blanks and decorate them Adds set-up and run charges per piece

A distributor is not a worse deal — it is the only practical way to buy small quantities across brands, and it is where the published price ladders live. But it explains why the same style number carries different prices at different sellers, and why searches for blankstyle, blank style, blank styles, bulkapparel and bella canvas wholesale mostly return sellers rather than manufacturers. One US distributor lists more than 80 brands in its catalogue. Nobody makes 80 brands.

Two consequences worth planning around. Stock is the distributor's, not the brand's, so availability of a specific colour and size can differ between sellers on the same day. And contract pricing is negotiated with the distributor, not with the brand, unless you are at national-account volume. The three business models behind the word "wholesale" are set out in how to verify a wholesale clothing supplier.

The blank tee specs that actually differ between brands

Here is the comparison, drawn from manufacturer and distributor listings accessed 16 August 2026. Weights are as published in oz/yd²; the gsm column converts at 1 oz/yd² = 33.9 g/m². Prices are the $3,000-plus tier at one US distributor for S to XL sizes, chosen because it is the highest tier all of these styles publish; they move with cotton, freight and season.

Major blank tee styles compared on published specification and one distributor's tier price, accessed 16 August 2026.

Style oz/yd² ≈ gsm Fibre and yarn as listed Singles Body Fit as listed $3,000+ tier
Gildan 5000 Heavy Cotton 5.3 180 100% cotton, preshrunk; spin method not stated 20 Tubular Classic $2.86
Gildan 64000 Softstyle 4.5 153 100% ring-spun cotton 30 Tubular Modern classic $3.61
Hanes 5250 Authentic 6.0 203 100% cotton jersey, preshrunk 20 Side seams on 3XL–6XL only Classic unisex $4.56
Next Level 3600 4.3 145 100% combed ring-spun cotton 32 Side-seamed Retail cut $5.14
BELLA+CANVAS 3001 4.2 142 100% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton 32 Side-seamed Retail unisex $6.01
Comfort Colors 1717 6.1 207 100% ring-spun cotton, garment dyed see note Tubular per distributor listing Relaxed $8.82
BELLA+CANVAS 4810GD 6.5 220 100% ring-spun cotton, garment dyed 18 Side-seamed, semi-drop shoulder Heavyweight $9.54

Two honesty notes on that table, because they matter more than any of the rows.

Listings disagree with each other. The Comfort Colors 1717 is quoted at 20 singles on one major distributor's page, 30 on another and 32 on a third, all for the same style number. The weight, 6.1 oz, is consistent everywhere. Where sources conflict on a spec field, treat it as unspecified and ask the seller in writing rather than trusting the listing you saw first.

Heather and specialty colours are not the stated fibre content. BELLA+CANVAS lists Ash as 99 percent cotton and 1 percent polyester; Gildan and Hanes both list several colourways as 50/50, 90/10 or 99/1 blends; Hanes lists safety colours at 60/40. The style number tells you the base spec, the colourway tells you the actual one.

The generalisation, stated as one. Across the market, heavier weights, finer singles, combing and side seams all cost more, and brands cluster into tiers along those axes. Any individual style can sit off its brand's usual tier, which is why the style number is the unit of comparison and the brand name is not.

What Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton actually means

Airlume is BELLA+CANVAS's designation for its combed and ring-spun cotton. It is not a fibre, not a species of cotton, and not a blend. It describes two ordinary textile processes applied to ordinary cotton, held to one brand's standard across a range.

Both processes are available from any competent spinner. "Combed ring-spun" is the standard premium tee specification worldwide, and it appears on Next Level's 3600 listing and many others without any brand name attached. What a designation like Airlume adds is consistency across styles and colours, not a different raw material. The mechanics are set out in what combed ring-spun cotton actually means.

One practical note for anyone reading spec sheets: distributor listings render the phrase several ways — airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, airlume combed and ring spun cotton, airlume combed and ringspun cotton, and with the fibre percentage in front as 100 airlume combed and ring-spun cotton or 100 airlume combed and ring spun cotton. All of these describe the same specification, and a search for airlume cotton returns the same product. The hyphen carries no information.

Fabric weight, yarn count and construction: reading across brands

Four axes explain almost every difference you can feel.

Weight. Published in oz/yd² in the US and gsm at the mill. The workhorse retail band is 160 to 200 gsm; 220 to 260 gsm is boxy streetwear; below about 150 gsm is a drapey fashion tee. Fabric consumption scales with it — a 180 gsm tee uses about 0.27 kg of finished dyed jersey, a 146 gsm tee about 0.22 kg, a 203 gsm tee about 0.30 kg. Conversions across the whole range are in the GSM fabric weight chart with oz/yd² conversions.

Yarn count. Higher singles means finer yarn. Thirty singles is the standard tee count; 20s is coarse and heavy; 32s is fine. A 180 gsm fabric knitted from 30s is denser and smoother than the same weight from 20s, which is why weight alone tells you very little.

Carded open-end against combed ring-spun. Open-end rotor spinning is three to five times faster and cheaper, and produces a hairier, weaker yarn used for promotional tees and denim wefts. Combed ring-spun is the retail specification. This is the single biggest driver of how a tee feels, and it is usually stated on the listing.

Side-seamed against tubular. A tubular body is cut from a knitted tube: fewer operations, lower cost, and nothing structural resisting the residual yarn twist that makes side seams rotate after washing. A side-seamed body is cut as panels and joined, which stabilises against torquing, allows a shaped armhole, and gives a printer a straight registration edge. Neither is wrong; tubular is the traditional construction for a boxy heavyweight.

Colour range and sizing consistency are the two axes with no honest brand-level ranking. BELLA+CANVAS lists 86 colours on the 3001; other brands publish 40-plus on their volume styles; garment-dyed lines run narrower. On sizing, every brand grades to its own block and blocks differ between styles within a brand, so the only reliable method is comparing published points of measure for the exact style number — chest one inch below armhole, body length from high point shoulder, sleeve length, shoulder width — in the size you sell most. Do it again when you change style, not just when you change brand.

The BELLA+CANVAS unisex heavyweight garment-dyed tee and the garment-dyed tier

The BELLA+CANVAS unisex heavyweight garment-dyed tee, style 4810GD, is listed at 6.5 oz/yd² in 100 percent ring-spun cotton at 18 singles, side-seamed, with a semi-dropped shoulder and a tear-away label. Its women's counterpart is the BELLA + CANVAS 6110GD women's garment-dyed tee. The competing reference points are the Comfort Colors 1717 at 6.1 oz and Shaka Wear's garment-dyed heavyweight at 7.5 oz.

Garment dyeing is what separates this tier, and it is a process difference rather than a quality one. Colour is applied to the finished garment instead of the fabric roll, which gives the softened hand and the slightly uneven, lived-in colour people buy the category for. Two consequences follow and both are in the listings if you read them: shade differences between batches are expected rather than defects, and printing white ink over a pigment-dyed surface needs care. The whole category, with the styles and the cost arithmetic, is in garment-dyed blanks and the styles people buy.

"Canvas t shirts": what the phrase means in this market

Worth stating plainly because the ambiguity is real. Canvas is a heavy plain-weave cotton cloth used for bags, awnings and workwear, and it is not a t-shirt fabric. In blanks searches, canvas t shirts means BELLA+CANVAS tees roughly every time — as do canvas tee shirts, canvas bella tee, canvas bella t shirts, bella t shirts, bella canvas t shirts, bella canvas tees, bella canvas tee, bella canvas t shirt, bella canvas tshirt, bella and canvas t shirts and bella and canvas tees. The brand is written with a plus sign and was formed from two labels, which is why so many renderings exist.

Two related searches mean different things. Canvas t shirts custom is looking for a decorated blank, which means a distributor supplies the garment and a decorator prints it — the brand does not decorate. And a bella canvas hoodie query is a fleece question, where the answer depends entirely on the style number: fleece across this market runs 280 gsm for lightweight French terry, 320 gsm for a standard hooded sweatshirt and 340 to 380 gsm for heavier streetwear weights.

Finished retail garments show up in these searches too. A j crew garment dyed t shirt and a ralph lauren garment dyed oxford shirt are branded retail products, not blanks — the first has a blanks equivalent in the heavyweight garment-dyed tier, the second is a garment-dyed woven shirting, a much smaller category in blanks. The high-volume rushordertees premium cotton t-shirt query is a decorator's own product listing rather than a blank brand. So is camisa ralph lauren polo, the Spanish-language version of the same retail query — someone shopping for a branded polo shirt rather than for undecorated stock. A blanks buyer's equivalent is a plain polo bought undecorated, with your own label and decoration applied afterwards, which is a different product and a different price basis entirely.

What the specification differences cost at the factory, and what they cost you

This is where the brand comparison becomes an economics question, and the answer is not intuitive.

At factory level, the whole ladder from a commodity tee to a premium one is small. Moving 4.3 oz to 5.3 oz adds about $0.41 of fabric; 5.3 oz to 6.0 oz adds about $0.28. Switching open-end yarn for ring-spun adds roughly $0.33 to $0.55 at fabric level. Combing adds roughly $0.20 to $0.35. Adding side seams is one extra minute of sewing at about $0.08. Stack the whole ladder and the factory-level gap between a commodity tubular carded tee and a heavyweight combed ring-spun side-seamed one is roughly $1.10 to $1.65 of FOB.

Now put that next to the market. On the tier prices above, the same distributor sells a Gildan 5000 at $2.86 and a BELLA+CANVAS 4810GD at $9.54 — a spread of $6.68.

Cost per ounce of fabric weight, computed from the $3,000-plus tier prices above. This is a sanity check on what you are paying for beyond cloth, not a quality ranking.

Style Tier price oz/yd² $ per oz of fabric weight
Gildan 5000 $2.86 5.3 $0.54
Hanes 5250 $4.56 6.0 $0.76
Gildan 64000 Softstyle $3.61 4.5 $0.80
Next Level 3600 $5.14 4.3 $1.20
BELLA+CANVAS 3001 $6.01 4.2 $1.43
Comfort Colors 1717 $8.82 6.1 $1.45
BELLA+CANVAS 4810GD $9.54 6.5 $1.47

Read those two paragraphs together. A factory-level specification gap of at most $1.65 becomes a wholesale gap of $6.68, and cost per ounce nearly triples across the range. The difference is not cloth. It is yarn quality you can feel, construction you can measure, and then scale, brand, colour depth and two layers of channel margin that you cannot see and cannot negotiate at case quantity. That is the whole argument for buying on style number and specification rather than on brand — and, above roughly 1,100 units of a premium blank, the argument for having the garment made instead. The break-even arithmetic is on the sourcing economics behind blank apparel pricing, and the field-by-field spec reading is in how to read a blank tee spec.

Company names people search alongside blank brands

A large share of searches in this space are navigational: someone is looking for one specific company, not a category. Those companies are a mix of contract manufacturers, distributors and businesses in unrelated industries with similar names, and the only safe approach is to verify each one.

Company names that appear alongside blank apparel searches, with what we could verify and where.

Name searched What we could verify Source of the check
appareify clothing manufacturer An apparel manufacturer that also publishes manufacturer directories on its own site Company's own website
lefty production A Los Angeles design, development and production company for garments and accessories Company's own website
alvarado manufacturing chino A Chino, California manufacturer listed under turnstiles and rail — not apparel Chino Valley Chamber of Commerce member listing
apparel source oakland / apparel source oakland ca A firm listed as The Apparel Source at an Oakland, California address Third-party textile trade directory
buckle private label The retailer Buckle's own brands, reported at roughly 36% of net sales in fiscal 2015 Company's Form 10-K filed with the SEC

Several others recur in this keyword set and we could not verify them from a primary source, so this page makes no claims about them beyond noting that they are company names rather than product categories: apparel production inc, apparel production inc new york ny, argyle haus of apparel, cord apparel, argus apparel, centric clothing and beehive clothing manufacturing. If one of them is the reason you are here, the fastest verification is the label itself: look up the RN on any garment they produced in the Federal Trade Commission's public register, which maps a Registered Identification Number to the company legally responsible for that label. The full checking sequence is in how to verify a wholesale clothing supplier, and the difference between a contract manufacturer and a brand's own label programme is in private label against white label manufacturing.

Frequently asked questions

What is airlume cotton?

Airlume is BELLA+CANVAS's brand name for its combed and ring-spun cotton. It is a preparation and spinning designation, not a fibre type or a species of cotton. Combing removes short fibres before spinning, typically 12 to 20 percent of the weight as noil, and ring spinning twists the fibres more gently than open-end rotor spinning. The result is a smoother, lower-pilling yarn.

What does "100 airlume combed and ring spun cotton" mean on a label?

It means the garment is 100 percent cotton, that the cotton was combed to remove short fibres before spinning, and that it was ring spun rather than rotor spun. The word Airlume identifies whose specification it is. Some colours are not 100 percent: BELLA+CANVAS lists Ash as 99 percent cotton and 1 percent polyester, so check the colourway, not just the style.

Is Airlume a different fibre from ordinary cotton?

No. It is ordinary cotton that has been combed and ring spun to a stated specification. Any mill can produce combed ring-spun cotton; the brand name signals a consistent standard across a range rather than a different raw material. Distributor listings spell it several ways, including airlume combed and ringspun cotton and 100 airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, all meaning the same thing.

What are canvas t shirts?

In the blanks market, canvas t shirts almost always means BELLA+CANVAS tees, not tees made from canvas fabric. Canvas as a material is a heavy plain-weave cloth used for bags and workwear and is not used for t-shirts. If a listing says canvas and quotes a weight in the 4 to 6 oz range with a jersey construction, it is the brand, not the cloth.

Are canvas tee shirts the same as a canvas bella tee?

Yes. Canvas tee shirts, canvas bella tee, bella canvas tee and bella t shirts are all informal renderings of the same brand, BELLA+CANVAS, which was formed from two labels and is written with a plus sign. The style number is what identifies the garment: a 3001 unisex jersey tee and a 4810GD garment-dyed heavyweight are very different products from the same brand.

Where do canvas t shirts custom orders actually come from?

From a blank, plus a decorator. Searches for canvas t shirts custom are looking for a printed or embroidered BELLA+CANVAS garment, which means a distributor supplies the blank and a screen printer, embroiderer or direct-to-garment shop decorates it. The brand does not decorate. Custom fabric, weight or fit is a different job and requires a factory, not a blank.

What weight is a bella canvas hoodie?

It depends on the style, and you should read the style number rather than the brand. Fleece across the blanks market runs from about 280 gsm for a lightweight French terry to 320 gsm for the standard hooded sweatshirt weight and 340 to 380 gsm for heavier streetwear fleece. Check the published oz/yd² for the specific style, since one brand spans the whole range.

Is BlankStyle a brand or a distributor?

A distributor. BlankStyle, sometimes written blank style or blank styles, sells other companies' blanks: BELLA+CANVAS, Gildan, Hanes, Next Level, Comfort Colors, Shaka Wear and others. That matters for price, because a distributor's margin sits on top of the brand's, and it matters for stock, because availability is theirs rather than the brand's.

Is BulkApparel a brand?

No. BulkApparel is a wholesale distributor of blank apparel that carries more than 80 brands, including Gildan, Hanes, Next Level, BELLA+CANVAS, Champion, Jerzees, Comfort Colors and Independent Trading Co. Sellers with names like bulktee follow the same model. You are buying a catalogue and a warehouse, not a manufacturer.

What is the difference between Bella+Canvas and Gildan?

Specification and price tier. On the two most common styles, the BELLA+CANVAS 3001 is 4.2 oz of Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton at 32 singles with side seams; the Gildan 5000 is 5.3 oz of cotton at 20 singles with a tubular body. The Gildan is heavier and cheaper; the BELLA+CANVAS is finer-yarned and side-seamed. Both are legitimate choices for different jobs.

Which blank brand has the most consistent sizing?

There is no reliable brand-level answer, because every brand grades to its own block and blocks differ between styles inside one brand. The only dependable method is to compare published points of measure for the exact style number: chest one inch below armhole, body length from high point shoulder, sleeve length and shoulder width, in the size you sell most.

What is the BELLA+CANVAS unisex heavyweight garment-dyed tee?

It is style 4810GD, listed at 6.5 oz/yd² in 100 percent ring-spun cotton at 18 singles, side-seamed, with a semi-dropped shoulder and a tear-away label. It is garment dyed, so shade differences between batches are expected rather than defects. The women's counterpart in the same family is the BELLA + CANVAS 6110GD women's garment-dyed tee.

Can I buy a j crew garment dyed t shirt as a blank?

No. A j crew garment dyed t shirt is a finished retail product sold under that retailer's own label, not a blank sold for decoration. If that garment is your reference point, the closest blanks are heavyweight garment-dyed styles such as the Comfort Colors 1717 at 6.1 oz or the BELLA+CANVAS 4810GD at 6.5 oz, both available undecorated through distributors.

Is a ralph lauren garment dyed oxford shirt a blank?

No, it is finished branded retail product. Garment-dyed oxford is a woven cotton shirting dyed after making up, which gives the softened hand and the slightly uneven colour people buy it for. The blanks market carries garment-dyed wovens too, but far fewer styles than in knits, and the minimums for a custom garment-dyed woven are higher.

Why do two tees at the same ounce weight feel different?

Because weight is one variable of four. Yarn count changes density: a 180 gsm fabric knitted from 30s yarn is smoother and denser than the same weight in 20s. Combing removes short fibres and lowers pilling. Ring spinning gives a less hairy yarn than open-end. And finishing, including compacting and any softener, changes the hand before you ever touch it.

Do blank brands sell direct?

Rarely below contract volume. The normal route is brand to distributor to you, which is why the same style number carries different prices at different sellers and why bella canvas wholesale searches mostly return distributors rather than the brand. Direct accounts exist at national-account volume and come with commitments most buyers do not want.

What does buckle private label mean?

It refers to the retailer Buckle's own brands, such as BKE and Daytrip, which it develops and sells alongside third-party labels. In its fiscal 2015 annual report the company put private label at roughly 36 percent of net sales. It is a retail merchandising model rather than a blanks brand, and it is closer to private label manufacturing than to buying blanks.

Which blank brand is cheapest per ounce of fabric?

On the tier prices listed at one US distributor on 16 August 2026, the Gildan 5000 works out at about $0.54 per ounce of fabric weight and a BELLA+CANVAS 3001 at about $1.43, with Hanes, Next Level and Softstyle in between. Cost per ounce is a useful sanity check, but it prices cloth and ignores yarn, seams and fit, which is what you are usually paying for.

Sources

If you have compared the brands and none of them has the weight, fibre or fit you actually want, that is the point where a production run starts to make sense.

Price your own spec against the blanks