Apparel Design and Artwork: From a T-Shirt Design to a Manufacturable Garment
In brief. A printable t shirt design is vector artwork, or raster at 300 DPI at final print size, with colours named as Pantone spot references. A manufacturable garment needs more: a technical flat, points of measure with tolerances, a bill of materials and a colourway page. A mockup is neither of those things.
Key facts
- Screen printers require vector files (.ai, .eps, press-quality PDF) or embedded raster at 300 DPI at the final print size; halftone work needs 1200 DPI at output size.
- Each additional screen-print colour costs $15 to $30 in setup plus the per-colour run charge, so adding three colours to a 200-piece run costs about $4.13 a shirt, or $825 on the order.
- Standard adult print placements are full front 11 inches wide at 3 inches below the collar, left chest 3.5 by 2 inches, and full back 12 by 14 inches at 3 to 4 inches below the rear collar.
- Machine embroidery cannot reproduce lettering below about 0.25 inch lowercase or 0.3 inch uppercase, or stroke widths below 1 mm.
- In Star Athletica v. Varsity Brands, decided 22 March 2017, the Supreme Court held that a surface design on a garment is copyrightable if it can be perceived separately as a work of art; the garment's shape, cut and fit remain uncopyrightable.
There is a gap in this subject nobody covers: the distance between a finished-looking design and something a printer or factory can actually make. This page covers what production files require, what design tools can and cannot do, the difference between designing a graphic and designing a garment, and the copyright rules that apply once you sell the result. It sits under how custom and decorated apparel is actually sourced. Figures are as of 16 August 2026.
Artwork file requirements that actually matter
Decorators redraw a large share of the files they receive, and it is nearly always one of four faults: raster where vector was needed, resolution measured at the wrong size, colours defined in RGB, or live text left without outlines.
What each file type is and what it is good for.
| Format | Type | Good for | Limitation |
|---|---|---|---|
| .ai, .eps, press-quality PDF | Vector | Screen print separations, vinyl cutting, embroidery digitising | Needs the source software; fonts must be outlined |
| .svg | Vector | Web, cutting, simple print artwork | Effects and gradients translate inconsistently |
| .psd, .tif | Raster, layered | Photographic DTG and DTF work, halftone separations | Must be built at final size and resolution |
| .png | Raster, transparent | DTG, DTF, quick approvals | Usually exported at screen resolution |
| .jpg | Raster, no transparency | Reference and mockups only | Compression artefacts and a white box behind the art |
The rules, stated plainly. Supply vector where the method is screen print, vinyl or embroidery. Where raster is unavoidable, supply 300 DPI at the final print size — and note that both halves of that sentence matter. Halftone and photographic separation work wants 1200 DPI at output size. Convert all type to outlines so the printer does not need your font. And build the artboard at the actual print dimensions, so nobody has to guess how big you meant it.
The arithmetic that settles most resolution arguments: a 12-inch-wide front print at 300 DPI needs 3,600 pixels across. A logo pulled off a website at 1,200 pixels is 100 DPI at that size and prints soft and stepped. Enlarging it in software adds no information; it interpolates. If 3,600 pixels do not exist, redraw as vector.
Spot colour, process colour and why screen colours are not printed colours
Screen printing is a spot colour process by nature: each colour is a premixed ink pushed through its own screen. That is why a design's colour count and its price are the same conversation. Process colour — CMYK separated into halftone dots — is used for photographic work and is the exception rather than the rule on garments.
Name your colours as Pantone references rather than describing them. "PMS 485 C" leaves no room for interpretation; "the red in the logo" leaves plenty. Two cautions. First, print colour and textile colour use different Pantone systems: Pantone Solid Coated for ink, Pantone TCX for dyed fabric, and TCX swatches are cotton substrate rather than paper. Specify the code and the system, always. Second, a monitor emits light in RGB and can display saturated colours that no pigment reproduces, so bright screen greens and blues shift when they are separated to ink. Judge colour on a physical swatch under controlled lighting, never on a screen — the discipline is set out in how Pantone lab dips and Delta E tolerances are set.
How many colours a clothing design should use, and what each one costs
Colour count is the single design decision with the most direct effect on unit price, and most people making a t shirt design never see the arithmetic.
Each screen-print colour costs $15 to $30 in setup (typically $25) plus its own per-shirt run charge, which falls with volume from about $3.50 at 12–23 pieces to $0.65 at 1,000 and above.
What one additional print colour costs, by order quantity. US decorator rates as of 16 August 2026.
| Order quantity | Setup share per shirt | Run charge per colour | Cost of one more colour, per shirt | Cost of three more colours, whole order |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 | $0.50 | $2.25 | $2.75 | $412 |
| 200 | $0.13 | $1.25 | $1.38 | $825 |
| 1,000 | $0.03 | $0.65 | $0.68 | $2,025 |
| 5,000 | $0.01 | $0.65 | $0.66 | $9,900 |
Two consequences. At small quantity, extra colours hurt per-shirt price badly. At large quantity the per-shirt effect is small but the total is real money — $9,900 on a 5,000-piece run. Note also that printing on a dark garment adds a white underbase, which is another screen and another pass, so a "three-colour" design on black is really four.
Embroidery has a different constraint. Melco's published guidelines recommend a ceiling of six thread colours against a machine maximum of sixteen, and set hard floors of 0.25 inch for lowercase lettering, 0.3 inch for uppercase and 1 mm stroke width. A design below those thresholds is not stitched badly — it cannot be stitched. Method-by-method economics are in how decoration methods compare on cost and minimum.
The design tools people actually use, and what each is for
Where each tool sits in the process.
| Tool category | Output | Good for | Where it stops |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adobe Illustrator | Vector | The professional standard for print artwork, separations, technical flats | Learning curve; subscription cost |
| Adobe Photoshop | Raster | Photographic art, halftone separations, mockups | Not a vector tool; resolution is fixed at creation |
| CAD suites (CLO, Optitex, Browzwear) | 3D garment and pattern | Fit simulation, pattern development, digital sampling | Garment-level, not graphic-level |
| Browser design tools (Canva and similar) | Raster, screen resolution by default | Layout, quick concepts, mockups, social assets | No spot colours, no separations, no production output |
| Print-on-demand builders | Listing plus mockup | Selling with no inventory | You are decorating someone else's blank |
This is where a lot of searches land. Apparel design websites, a clothing design website, a clothing design maker and offers to design clothing line online all describe the fourth and fifth rows: fine for concepts and for selling one at a time, not a route to a production file. Canvas custom shirts is a phrase that usually means one of two unrelated things — Bella+Canvas, a widely stocked blank brand decorators print on, or Canva the design tool. Cotton canvas is neither; it is a heavy woven cloth used for bags and workwear.
The honest advice: design in whatever tool you like, then have the artwork rebuilt as vector with named Pantone references before it reaches a press. That rebuild is a cheap one-time job and removes the commonest cause of a disappointing first run.
A graphic is not a garment: what turns a clothing design into a product
This is the distinction that separates a t shirt designer from a clothing designer, and it is worth stating bluntly. Designing a print is not designing a product. If the garment underneath is a stock blank, the graphic is the whole job. If the garment itself is yours — your fit, your fabric, your collar, your labels — then the graphic is a minor component of a much larger specification.
What a factory needs instead of a mockup:
- Technical flat sketches — front, back and side, drawn as proportional line art with callout lines to every seam, pocket, placket, stitch detail and piece of hardware. Not a fashion illustration.
- Bill of materials — every component with supplier, reference, colour, placement and consumption: shell fabric, rib, thread ticket and colour, buttons, zippers, drawcords, elastic, main and care labels, hangtags, polybag, carton.
- Points of measure with grading and tolerance — most garments carry 15 to 25. Specify flat measure versus circumference and relaxed versus extended, because half-measure is the Asian convention and assuming it is a classic source of disputes.
- Colourways mapped component-by-component to Pantone TCX codes — shell, rib, thread, zip tape, label.
- Construction callouts — stitch class and seam class per operation, stitches per inch, seam allowance, topstitch margin, hem depth, bartack placement.
- Labelling and packaging, care instructions and QC requirements including AQL level and required tests.
Techpacker cites Common Objective research finding that roughly 40% of first-sample rejections trace to unclear or missing measurement specifications — not to the design. That is the cost of skipping step three. The full contents list is in what a factory-ready tech pack contains, and there is a tech pack template you can build from.
Development is not free either. A first sample runs $200 to $350 for a tee, $300 to $600 for a hoodie and $400 to $900 for a knit sweater, over two to four rounds, so a single style typically costs $900 to $5,000 to develop all in. The sequence those samples run through is in the sample sequence from proto to top of production.
Print placement and sizing conventions
Placement is specified in inches from a fixed reference — normally the collar seam — not judged by eye, because a decorator setting up a run of 500 needs a repeatable measurement.
Industry-standard adult layouts.
| Placement | Print size | Position |
|---|---|---|
| Full front | 11 in wide (8–10 in for narrow shapes) | 3 in down from the collar line |
| Left chest | 3.5 × 2 in, 4.5 in maximum width | 2.5–3 in down, 3.5–4 in off the centre seam |
| Full back | 12 × 14 in, up to 13 × 16 in oversized | 3–4 in down from the rear collar |
| Short sleeve | 2.5 × 1 in | Centred about 1 in above the hem |
| Long sleeve | up to 2.5 × 14 in, vertical | Stopping about 3.5 in above the cuff |
Youth prints scale down 15 to 20% with placement 2 to 2.5 inches from the collar. Two things people forget: the same absolute print reads larger on a small and smaller on a 3XL, so decide whether you scale by size or hold one size across the range; and seams, pockets and zippers restrict the usable area, which is why a print that works on a tee may not work on a full-zip hoodie.
Copyright and licensing for artwork on goods for sale
Three separate questions, often confused.
Is your design protected? In Star Athletica, LLC v. Varsity Brands, Inc., decided 22 March 2017, the Supreme Court held that a design applied to a useful article is eligible for copyright if it can be perceived as a two- or three-dimensional work of art separate from the article and would qualify as a protectable work on its own. Applied to clothing that means the surface graphic can be protected; the garment's shape, cut and fit cannot. Clothing is a useful article, and its utilitarian form stays outside copyright.
Do you own it? Not automatically, if someone else drew it. In the US, copyright in a commissioned work generally remains with the creator absent a written assignment or a valid work-for-hire agreement. Get the assignment in writing, and separately make sure you receive the layered source files, the vector artwork and any embroidery digitising file — those are reusable assets, and a decorator who holds your stitch file holds a switching cost.
Are you allowed to use what is in it? Third-party logos are trademarks and brand names are protected independently of copyright. Characters, photographs and illustrations are somebody's copyright. Stock artwork licences frequently exclude "goods for resale," which is exactly what a printed shirt is. Fonts carry licences too, and some prohibit commercial merchandise use. The safe positions are original artwork, properly licensed stock with an explicit commercial-use grant, or verified public-domain material. This is general information, not legal advice; take advice on anything material.
From a design to a clothing designer manufacturer: the sequence that works
If the aim is to create your own clothing brand rather than to sell a graphic, the order of operations matters more than any single decision.
- Settle the product before the graphic. Fabric weight, fit and silhouette drive cost far more than artwork does.
- Get artwork production-ready — vector, outlined type, named Pantone references, built at final size.
- Match decoration method to quantity. Below a few hundred pieces, decorate blanks. Above roughly a thousand of one style in one colour, manufacturing starts to win.
- Build the tech pack. Technical flat, BOM, points of measure with grading and tolerance, colourways, construction callouts.
- Sample properly — proto, fit, size set, then a pre-production sample in bulk fabric and bulk trims. Never cut bulk before PP approval.
- Place production, with an AQL level and inspection agreed before the goods ship.
A clothing designer manufacturer — a supplier that both develops and produces — can compress steps four and five, which is genuinely useful when you have no technical team. The trade-off is ownership: if the factory drafts the pattern, the pattern is usually theirs, and moving the style elsewhere later means redeveloping it. Ask who owns the pattern and the graded specification before development starts, and put the answer in writing. The commercial side of the decision is in planning the commercial side of a clothing line.
Terms people use for the same thing
Search language here is broad and imprecise. Clothing design, clothing designs, apparel design, custom clothing design, clothing brand design, brand clothing design and clothing brand designs are used interchangeably for everything from a logo to a full collection. Design your own clothing and create your own apparel usually mean putting a graphic on a stock garment, clothing branding is a wider marketing question, and how to create your own clothing brand is a business question of which artwork is one early step. T shirt designs and custom t shirt design searches almost always want the decorated-blank route; custom shirt design more often means a woven shirt, a different garment entirely. Definitions are in the Yarnstick glossary of sourcing and trade terms.
Frequently asked questions
What file format does a t shirt design need to be in?
Vector: Adobe Illustrator .ai, .eps or a press-quality PDF. These carry named spot-colour swatches and scale without loss, which is what a screen printer needs to output separations. A .jpg or .png from a phone or a website is raster and usually unusable at print size. If you only have raster, supply it at 300 DPI at the final print dimensions.
What resolution does a t shirt design need to print?
300 DPI measured at the final print size, not at whatever size the file happens to open. A 12-inch-wide front print therefore needs about 3,600 pixels across. A 1,200-pixel logo pulled from a website is only 100 DPI at 12 inches and will print soft and pixelated. Halftone and photographic work needs 1200 DPI at output size.
What is the difference between vector and raster artwork?
Vector artwork is described as mathematical paths, so it scales to any size with no loss and can be output directly as colour separations. Raster artwork is a fixed grid of pixels, so enlarging it invents detail that was never there. Screen printing, vinyl cutting and embroidery digitising all want vector. Photographic DTG work is inherently raster.
How many colours should a t shirt design use?
As few as the idea allows, because each screen-print colour costs $15 to $30 in setup plus a per-colour run charge. On a 200-piece run each extra colour adds about $1.38 a shirt. Going from two colours to five adds roughly $4.13 a shirt, or $825 across the order. Embroidery has a practical ceiling of six thread colours.
Why does my design look different printed than it did on screen?
Because a screen emits light in RGB and a garment reflects it in ink or thread. RGB can display saturated colours no pigment can reproduce, so bright screen greens and blues shift when separated to ink. The fix is to specify colours as named Pantone references rather than trusting the monitor, and to view a physical swatch.
What is a clothing designer manufacturer?
A supplier that both develops the design and produces it, rather than only cutting and sewing to a specification you supply. In practice it usually means a factory with an in-house pattern and sampling team that can turn a sketch into a technical flat, a pattern and a graded specification. The trade-off is that the resulting pattern is usually the factory's, not yours.
Can I use Canva for clothing design?
For laying out a graphic and producing a mockup, yes. For production files, usually not on its own. Browser design tools export raster at screen resolution by default and do not carry named spot colours or produce separations. Design in whichever tool suits you, then have the artwork rebuilt as vector with Pantone references before it goes to a printer.
What are the best apparel design websites?
There is no single answer, because they do three different jobs. Print-on-demand platforms let you place a graphic on a stock garment and sell it with no inventory. Browser design tools produce artwork and mockups. Professional vector and raster software produces the production files decorators need. Only the third category outputs something a factory or screen printer can use directly.
How do you create your own clothing brand from a design?
Six steps, in order: settle the product and fit before the graphic, get artwork into vector with Pantone references, decide decoration method against your quantity, build a tech pack with a technical flat and points of measure, run samples through proto, fit and pre-production stages, then place production. The design is roughly step two of six.
Is a clothing brand maker the same as a manufacturer?
No. A clothing brand maker is usually an online tool or service that generates logos, mockups and print-on-demand listings. A manufacturer makes garments. The tool produces images; the factory needs specifications. Confusing the two is the most common reason a first production order comes back looking nothing like the picture that was approved.
What is the difference between a t shirt designer and a clothing designer?
A t shirt designer produces graphics that get applied to an existing garment. A clothing designer produces the garment itself — silhouette, proportion, fabric, construction — which then needs a pattern maker and a technical designer to become manufacturable. They are separate skills, and most people searching for one actually need the other at some point.
Do I own the copyright to a t shirt design I commissioned?
Not automatically. In the US, copyright in a commissioned work generally stays with the creator unless there is a written assignment or a valid work-for-hire agreement. Get a signed assignment covering the artwork, and separately confirm you also received the layered source files and any embroidery digitising file, which are assets you will reuse.
Can I put a logo, character or photograph I like on shirts I sell?
Not without a licence. Third-party logos are trademarks, characters and photographs are copyrighted, and selling goods bearing them is infringement regardless of quantity. Fonts also carry licences that may not cover commercial merchandise. Use original artwork, properly licensed stock with a commercial-use grant, or public-domain material you have verified.
What is the difference between a mockup and a tech pack?
A mockup is a picture of the finished idea, used to sell it internally. A tech pack is the instruction set a factory builds from: technical flat sketches, a bill of materials, points of measure with grading and tolerance, construction and stitch callouts, a colourway page, labelling and packaging, and QC requirements. You cannot manufacture from a mockup.
What are canvas custom shirts?
The phrase usually means one of two unrelated things. Bella+Canvas is a widely stocked blank apparel brand whose tees decorators print on, so canvas custom shirts often means a decorated garment from that brand. Alternatively people mean Canva, the browser design tool. Neither is a fabric — cotton canvas is a heavy woven cloth used for bags and workwear, not tees.
Sources
- How to Prepare Artwork Files for Screen Printing: Spot Colors and Vector Setup — Printable Press
- T-Shirt Design Placement Guide: Industry Standard Layouts — ScreenPrinting.com, Ryonet
- Embroidery Design Guidelines — Melco International
- How Much Does Screen Printing Cost in 2026 — Pricing Guide — French Press Custom
- U.S. Supreme Court Clarifies Separability Analysis in Star Athletica, LLC v. Varsity Brands, Inc. — U.S. Copyright Office, Library of Congress
- Star Athletica, LLC v. Varsity Brands, Inc. — Supreme Court Bulletin — Legal Information Institute, Cornell Law School
- What Is a Tech Pack? — Techpacker
- Points of Measurement (POM) Complete List — Tech Pack Genius
- Fashion Sampling Costs — Adstronaut
- Pantone Color Matching in Fashion — Adstronaut
The gap most brands hit is not the design — it is turning an approved graphic into a technical flat, a bill of materials and a graded spec a factory can quote against.
Turn a design into a factory-ready tech pack